The Year’s Most Memorable Dishes, According to Manila’s Top Chefs and Gourmands

(SPOT.ph) How do we fall in love with food? Is it just our mouths recognizing the melding of old and new, of what’s familiar and what’s just opened our eyes to a deeply satisfying, heretofore unknown experience? Like the way we fall in love with people, it seems it takes so much more—at least if we go by the dishes listed below and the reasons why they were the answers to the question: What’s the most memorable dish you tasted this year?

For Ces Drilon, it’s finally getting her turn to continue a family tradition. For restaurateur Elbert Cuenca, it’s so many elements falling into place, creating a moment that will never, no matter what, happen again. For chef and author Angelo Comsti, it can be as simple as a host of basic ingredients coming together to make a lovingly crafted entrée—albeit thanks to a chef’s wizardry, of course.

Here are the dishes some of the city's best chefs and known gourmands got smitten with this year, sources of joy that won’t be forgotten anytime soon. While some of them now only reside in memory, the others you may still be able to taste yourself—and maybe fall in love with, too.

Also read:
The SPOT.ph 50 Great Restaurants of 2023: Best of Manila and Beyond 
LIST: The Exciting New Restaurants Opening in Manila in 2024

These are the best dishes this year enjoyed by top chefs and food figures in Manila:

Angelo Comsti, Food Writer

I must say, I ate well this year. There were many dishes that wowed me but two in particular that I fondly remember.

One was from the Naeum x Metiz collab, where Chef Stephan Duhesme and his team lightly stir fried zucchini with ampalaya oil, matched it with local mushrooms in caramelized butter and garlic, then crowned it with steamed cabbage and patis. It was made complete by a hearty broth of cured pork and smoked bangus and a home made oyster sauce. The components were pretty basic, with no hefty meat stealing the show, but it just astounds me how such a compelling dish was cleverly crafted.

The other is currently found in Chef Miko Calo’s tasting menu where she pairs chunks of lobster, that’s glazed with cognac, with guanciale, fregola and cured egg yolk. It delivers in taste, and it becomes even more interesting and satiating when seasoned with her story. It actually takes inspiration from the Kapampangan pancit langlang she had growing up and her aunt's callos. It’s a refined tip of the hat to two homecooked dishes.

Chef Patrick Go of Your Local

The Potato Flautas of Los Tacos by Chef Keith Curitana. Smokey potato puree with cheese on a crunchy taco shell. It’s very good, very comforting and homey. A humble potato turned into an excellent, well-balanced Mexican dish.

Ces Drilon

The first pancit langlang I made. Pancit langlang is a dish that is part of my family’s Christmas tradition. The holidays are never complete without it. I practically grew up with it and as the years passed, it became my mom’s duty to prepare Pancit Langlang for our annual family reunion. It’s one thing to enjoy this dish (which is not really a pancit but a soup) but completely another matter making it, a painstaking process that needs an entire day or even more. We like to call it Filipino Ramen on steroids.

This year marks the first time I attempted to learn the step by step process and prep it on my own. And in doing it I also learned a lot about its history—langlang is said to be on of Jose Rizal’s favorite dishes and is even mentioned in his El Filibusterismo. There is a bit of controversy too because some versions served in Imus, Cavite (where my maternal side of the family is from) are different from the original. The origin of the name is also quite humorous. When it was served to guests, the hosts would remark: “Pasensiya na kayo sa handa namin—pancit lang.”

It was so fulfilling to be able to make it myself and learn something that has been handed down for generations. There is an added pride too when the soup comes out of my kitchen to the anticipation of my family. If not served on the family buffet table, the broth can be kept in a teapot and poured as one is about to eat, a personal touch I thought of adding. We all know there is nothing more comforting than a steaming bowl of hot soup.

Elbert Cuenca, Restaurateur of Elbert’s Collective, Elbert’s Steakroom, Metronome

My most memorable meal this year was an onion-celery-carrot mirepoix and dry red wine braised Angus short ribs beef with herbs. This was at Mrs. Saldo’s in Silang, Cavite. While the dish itself was divine, what makes it most memorable are the circumstances around the dish. Chef-owner Rhea Rizzo opened her beautiful facility specially for my parents on a day it was normally closed. She personally cooked for and served us. It was a perfect day that brought so much joy to my family, and no one wanted it to end. Sadly, my mom passed away a couple of months later, and so the memory will always remain very dear to all of us.

Chef Sharwin Tee

My most memorable dish for this year would be the Cauliflower dish from The Pig and Palm in Cebu. It’s always exciting when restos can make a vegetable dish have multiple flavors and textures and be satisfying. Loved the umami flavor spiked by some brightness as well.

Anne Marie Ozaeta, Food Writer

The Ensaimada with Kalim-Aw kamote, cheese and soured milk, aged tapuy reduction, kasuy at Metiz Restaurant last May 16. The dish was everything I love about ensaimada—its buttery, sugary, cheesy essence—but taken to an altogether "wilder" direction. Dark brown instead of the usual light yellow hue, with a heftier texture, not at all like the fluffier ones à la Mrs. Cunanan or Mary Grace, and with a deep, patis-like, slightly sour flavor I never thought could work well with ensaymada.

What made this dish so memorable was how it seesawed between comforting familiarity and weird experimentation. This dish resonated with me because I truly love ensaimada, any kind, even the cheap ones that are super doughy and loaded with processed cheese. I have wonderful childhood memories of my mom baking ensaymada at home. And the Christmas season isn't complete without copious servings of ensaimada gifted by friends and family.

I love the infinite intricacies of the ensaymada—how each baker makes them a bit different, whether it's in the texture of the bread, the type of butter or cheese used, and whatever other flavors are added. This year, the Metiz version stands out because it takes the traditional sweet bread that I love so dearly and creates something so surprising and exciting, and very tasty too.

Ian Carandang of Sebastian's Ice Cream

The Detroit Roni Salciccia from Crosta. In a nutshell, this pie made me fall in love with pizza again. For me the quality of pizza had really gone down and none measured up to what was my ideal pizza memory: Freshly made Pizza Hut Pan Pizza from the Greenhills branch in the '80s. It's my opinion that when Pizza slowly transitioned into a delivery food, something crucial was lost as it devolved into mediocrity.

Until I had this Detroit-style pizza. This deep pan pizza topped with mixed ricotta and mozzarella, plus homemade salciccia and loads of roni cups, both brought me back to my childhood and exceeded it via the cheese crust wall that brought a new level of savory deliciousness to the pie. One bite and I was a pizza lover again. The key of course is that is MUST be eaten fresh from the oven in-store and not delivered. I admit to being late to the party in discovering Crosta but learning about their new head chef Yuichi Ito and his creations brought it to my attention and I am so glad I tried it. I look forward to trying all of his creations and being excited by pizza again. 

Alicia Colby Sy

The pani puri with mint, coriander and tamarind chutney in a puffed puri. Explosive fresh flavors. I had it at what I must say is the most memorable pop up for me this year: the collaboration between Toyo Eatery and Masque Restaurant of Mumbai. It brought together Filipino and Indian street food in such a great way. Not only was the food incredible but the entire vibe of the evening was incredible. It was light and convivial and just pure fun!

Chef Miko Calo of Metronome and Taqueria Franco

Memorable for me is Bruce Ricketts’ foie dish which he brought back for the last month of Mecha Uma. I think it’s cured in miso and has some shiso leaves. It’s delicious! But most importantly, I remember my tita whose favorite chef was Bruce, and how excited she was the first time I went with her to eat at Mecha Uma in 2014 or 2015. So when I had it again during my recent dinner at [the restaurant], it was bittersweet. It made me remember her and miss her while enjoying the the sweet and savory flavor that of the little piece of decadence.

Then, the leche flan ice cream finished with asin tibuok from Toyo Eatery’s new tasting menu. I could eat a whole pint!

Also, this course of amadai with kapi sauce from our recent collab with chef Pam of Bangkok's Restaurant Potong. It inspired me to finish a dish that I have been thinking about and set a different direction in execution.

Chinkee Koppe, Food Writer

I believe 2023 was really the year that the hospitality industry showed it has fully recovered from the pandemic, and it's now just eager to give an excited dining public what they have been deprived of for so long. These are the people willing to sell a kidney for even the priciest collab dinners and pop-ups. Then again, nostalgia still proves to be a strong motivator and people will never get tired of the flavors that remind them of simpler—perhaps happier—times.

I know was meant to focus on a particular dish, but I believe I need to give credit to that Filipinas collaboration at Metronome with chefs Miko Calo, Margarita Forés, and Johanne Siy. It's not often that every dish in a tasting menu garners wows and moans, but I vividly recall how this particular dinner had me looking around at my table mates asking, "Is this for real?" Spectacular effort.

Another stand out for me was Chef Keith Curitana (of Los Tacos)' ceviche with leche de tigre, cilantro oil, and edamame. I felt some kind of kinship with Chef Keith, a.k.a. Patrick, as he's supplied me along with many others the Mexican food we needed to survive the punishing lockdowns during the pandemic. Tasting that ceviche told me that this is not some home cook making a go at the food industry. This is a serious chef that has so much more to offer, and it’s only a matter of time.

The most delicious thing I put in my mouth this year would be the duck nasi sambar at the Singapore Tourism Board event which had chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar of Sambar and Café Aurora collaborating with Chef Daniel Sia of The Coconut Club SG. Probably the most seamless collaboration this year, too, and that meal was just exceptional. Still hoping for it to be a recurring thing.

Chef Charles Montañez of Liyab

The pares toast at the recent ayá pop-up of Hapag in Rockwell. I remember a dish more when it's simple but translated into something different while working really well. And I've always liked bread dishes representing fine skill based on execution, 'cause it makes or break the dish (or subconsciously, I highly admire the work itself cause breads are my weakness). It screams comfort just from the first bite alone, and for me, that's when you know it's too good. Chef Kevin Navoa and Chef Thirdy Dolatre are definitely producing food worthy of staying in our memory palates!"

Also, Deli by Chele’s Pastrami Rice. This on the other hand gave me the excuse to drag myself all the way to the Deli by Chele branch in Power Plant Mall the entire year, as many times as possible, and come up with ample other reasons or stuff to do in the area, just so I can have it for the day. Chef Chele and Carlos Villaflor’s Pastrami Rice was crazy, soul-fulfilling grub for me this 2023. I can't get enough of the texture of that rice and that well-executed pastrami, not to mention the entire dish is definitely bang for the buck.

JJ Yulo of Just Jonesing

Not the definitive list, but it's a good one:

1. Mecha Uma's Saba—it’s just one of Bruce Ricketts many dishes in his Mecha Uma closer, but it’s one of my favorite versions I’ve tried anywhere and I appreciate it more also because I found out what goes on behind its preparation.
2. Then the Cold Crab Somen at Your Local, which is maturing under Chef Pat Go. Somen was one of his dishes at his Your Local Balmori pop-up, and it left quite an impression on me.
3. Little Flour's Grilled Chicharon Bulaklak. I had this at before it became George & Onnie's, and it was a game changer for me.
4. Pardon My French's Antipasti Lunch—they have one of the city’s best lunch deals, with every dish a keeper. 
5. Prologue d’Fined's Tarako Cream Pasta with Shrimp, Aonori & Ikura—one of the dishes I tried at the restaurant at MITSUKOSHI BGC. It is as good as it sounds! 
6. Morty & Ella a.ka. mortadella (and then some too)—this pizza from Crosta. Very much hyped, but there’s a reason why. Quite good!
7. Chairman Fu's Hotpot—I love my hotpot, and this was a standout. Many excellent side dishes set them apart, but the main product is really good, too.
8. Sub sandwiches—it’s very simple: I love my sandwiches bodega deli style, with thinly sliced toppings in good bread—and the new winner of this is Sub Center PH.
9. Zhu Ba Jie's Pork Rib Stew. One of my forever go-to's is a hearty stew at this neighborhood restaurant.
10. Toyo Eatery's crispy pata—I don’t usually order this, but Toyo Eatery's Chef Jordy Navarra and his team made one at their Balmori pop up that will haunt me.
11. Rebel Baker's croissants—one of my new Baguio musts is to have croissants or other pastries there, washed down by excellent coffee.
12. The Prawn in Cacao by Resonance BKK and Mrs. Saldo's—just one of these dishes I had during their pop-up, but I still remember it fondly.
13. Gullivers' Prime Rib dinner—this is memorable to me because I am reminded Gullivers is still open, and that their food is actually quite good value for money.
14. Aguirre Fried Chicken's Fried Platter. It's an evil platter featuring their most excellent spicy fried chicken, fish, and liempo with a bunch of condiments. It’s bad for you but it’s good for you.
15. Sweet Ecstasy's Fish Fillet sandwich—I love fish fillet sandwiches, and when Sweet X came out with one that was supposed to be temporary, I personally campaigned for people to eat it so they’d consider keeping it on the menu.
16. The steak poivre at One World Deli—not quite the most popular way of having a steak, but when it’s done well, like they do at the deli, it’s excellent and crave-worthy.
17. Siam Thai BBQ's Mookata—basically hotpot, Thai style. It was hot and you’ll smell but damn it’s good and not expensive too!
18. Terraza Martinez' Zarzuela de Pargo - seafood stew with a hint of heat.. so good and clean tasting!
19. Sea.food by Chele Gonzalez' lechon fried rice—the name says it all. It’s crazy. Good thing it’s all the way in Boracay.

Cy Ynares, a.k.a. The Bald Baker

Key Coffee’s Crab Ikura Udon is probably one of the dishes i ate more than i should’ve this year. Haha!

It’s reminiscent of Filipino palabok but instead of rice noodles they use thick hand-pulled udon. Love the lumps of crab meat, pops of ikura, and the crunch from the fried tempura batter bits.

UPDATED (January 1, 2024, 11:15 a.m.): The error in the numbering of JJ Yulo's entry has been fixed.

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